Saturday, November 5, 2011

Meteroa Madness


Day 9 – After a pretty ordinary night at the hotel Delfini (dolphin) in Piraeus it was a traipse through the (dodgy) streets to find the Budget hire car place. After a detour the wrong way around the block all was located and all was good. Well nearly all was good, I signed the contract and negotiated the Grenglish with one exception… “Please do not hit people… car crash OK, your insurance cover, but do not hit people… it is not exactly, how do you say… legal to drive on this licence…” !!! Not sure about the validity of this statement as I thought international licences were a thing of the past however it was enough to put the fear of the Greek Orthodox god into me and ensure that I doubled my efforts not to run into any one!

On the road again and after the first of numerous exclamations at the way the crazy Greeks drive we arrived at our first stop Delphi. It was a brisk alpine area and even though we only just got there before closing, 45 minutes was enough time to wander the main archaeological site, and the remainder of the afternoon spent at the two ‘lesser’, free, sites. Delphi contains the Temple of Apollo where the priestesses (even back then the women really wore the pants) used to give out oracles (fortune tellers) after you paid a fee, sacrificed an animal etc. Allegedly they used to actually get high off some sort of methyl vapour introduced into the temple via two underground fault lines which run directly underneath the temple and talk gibberish.

Earlier we had driven through the ‘cute’ town of Arachova a few km’s before Delphi and whilst the archaeological site was impressive the actual village of modern Delphi didn’t inspire us so we retired to Arachova to find a room. A Lovely old couple offered us an awesome ‘chalet’ style room for 55 euro; however in an attempt to make budget (for the first time) we kept searching and found a 35 euro bed at the hotel Apollo. An afternoon and evening spent bar hopping starting at the Hotel Gospel (free Wi-Fi) and a ‘home cooked’ restaurant meal from some locals, led to a bit of retail therapy and buying treats (baklava and ice-cream).
Treasury of Athens

The stadium/theatre/thingo

The Streets of Arachova

The Treats of Arachova

Day 10 – Up early to make the mountain crossing towards Meteora. Arriving in the general area of Meteora we were initially gobsmacked by the various monasteries perched (literally) on top of the boulders above the town of Kalambaka. Stopping for lunch (baklava) on some rocks looking back at the Grand Meteora (the biggest and ‘original’ monastery) couldn’t have been more scenic way to spend lunch. Our enthusiasm was temporarily dampened when arriving at the Grand Meteora to it being shut (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays for those playing at home). However two of the nearby monasteries were open and we went in to take in our little task of monk life. Back to Kalambaka for the night (some lucky people might get free postcards from the Aeolic Star hotel) and dinner at a local diner where Mousakka and lamb were thoroughly enjoyed!
Lunch on a rock over looking, from left to right, St John's (I think), Grand Meteora and Versasse (or similar...)

Close up of the one I think was St John's
Day 11 – Not to miss out on the namesake of the area it was straight up the mountain to get back into Grand Meteora (it being a Thursday and open) and we were not disappointed. The biggest monastery is also the most accessible to the public and this coupled with some great historical displays on the two Greek wars of independence and the battles associated with freedom from Nazi occupation more than satisfied the history nerd in me!
Grand Meteora


Unfortunately my joy was short lived as it was back on the road and dealing with the crazy Greek drivers. What I thought were, line markings, road signs, warning signs, speed cameras, Police radar traps or any other road information service… turns out they are generically known as ‘tourist traps’ Something that gives the locals much enjoyment in staring, flashing lights, honking horns, yelling at the latest tourist who falls victim to these novelties!
Smiling in the face of death on Greek roads...
Not knowing where our final destination was we headed south towards Olympia, our eventual destination the following day, and reached the town of Patras late in the afternoon. What could’ve gone either way turned out to be a vibrant, modern CBD of a university town full of trendy cafes/bars and lots of young students. Turns out the student population is blissfully unaware of the impending European financial doom and the general feeling in Patras represents this to great effect. Having had a substantial lunch on the way looking over the water at Mindili we spent the night café hopping and sampling the local chips/nuts/ general appertiffi (not sure what the Greek term for it is). What a great time, would highly recommend a night there (as long as it’s in semester probably).
Night life in Patra
Day 12 – A quick dice with death on the roads and we were in Olympia. As per everywhere being the end of the season it was very quiet, no crowds and with the exception of a few German tour groups who we avoided, we had the place to ourselves. It’s a pretty impressive archaeological site to think of all the different civilisations which have used it for various reasons (pre-historic man, ancient Greek, Romans… and tourists). We managed to the get the actual stadium area to ourselves for a photos shoot. Being inside such a large area with no one else around gives you a feel for how massive it really is and one can only imagine it being full of Greeks during the ancient Olympics. The restorations of a few of the other areas are useful to get a feel of what the ruins that lay strewn everywhere once were.
The boxing and Wrestling arena at Olympia
The ancient Olympic 178m sprint...
Once out of the site we by-passed the museum after I checked whether the actual statue of Zeus was there… “No only photo…” an afternoon spent wandering the main street of Olympia and the shops which were still open this late in the tourist season. Lunch of Gyros, free Wi-Fi and premier league replays were enjoyed in the afternoon sun and great whether.
Gyros for lunch in Olympia
Not wanting to dice with death all the way to Athens on the day we were due to fly we got back on the road and headed towards Athens. As sunset approached we ended up in Corinth and because it was on our to do list, but too dark to see just then, we stopped there for the night. A heaps dodgier version of Patras we found cheap accommodation, had a quick bite, a coffee at a café and got an early night for our big day of travel.

Day 13 – Lucky 13! Hard to think we’ve only been on the road for less than 2 weeks; we have seen and done so much already. We managed to accidently end up at the same spot that the organised tours stop to view the Corinth Canal and proceeded to take the obligatory tourist photos. Whilst it is an impressive excavation/engineering exercise, being a realist I can’t help but think it’s a bit of a waste given it is way too narrow to be used by modern ships. Having said that I spose it is 120 odd years old, and is probably more of a feat when viewed from that perspective. The bungy jump was closed but can’t say I was willing to try it in a post GFC Greece were cost cutting everywhere is so evident!
Corinth Canal

Corinth Canal
Successfully navigated back to the airport and had a win when explaining to the Budget guy that our charger for the GPS they hired us didn’t work and he took it off the price! (We charged it off our laptop anyway but he didn’t need to know that). A quick AirOne flight to Milan in time for the 15:15 high speed train to Firenze (Florence). High speed trains are awesome, especially in 1st class, which our EUrail allows us to enjoy free drinks and snacks. If only I could speak Italian to get the complimentary Wi-Fi up and running! Not to worry, I’ll hand this blog over to the Editor-in-Chief (Katrina) and sit back and relax…

Love M&K!

No comments: